Skirt Hem Length

How to size a skirt hem

The total length is what gives a skirt its silhouette. A mini under 40 cm, a knee-length (medium) 40–60 cm, a long 60–80 cm, and a maxi above 80 cm are all measured from the waist down. For reference, waist-to-knee on an average adult runs about 55 cm. The hem fold (bainha) is the fabric you turn under and stitch along the bottom. A simple hem uses 1.5–2 cm, which suits everyday and casual skirts, while a festooned / wide hem uses 3–4 cm on heavier fabrics, formal pieces, and dress skirts that want some weight at the bottom. Take a 60 cm midi skirt with a 3 cm hem: you need to cut 60 + 3 = 63 cm from the waist to the raw edge before you fold anything.

Applications

Atelier and custom-made skirts, garment transformation such as shortening a dress or repurposing it as a skirt, casual and social fashion where you pick mini, midi or maxi by the occasion, and plain home sewing. Knowing the hem allowance upfront keeps you from cutting the fabric too short.

FAQ

Does the hem allowance vary with fabric? It does. Light fabrics like chiffon and silk take 1–2 cm, medium ones like cotton and linen take 2–3 cm, and heavy fabrics like denim and wool take 3–4 cm to add weight and stop the edge curling.

How do I shorten a ready-made skirt? Measure the final length you want from the waist, add the hem allowance, mark it, cut, then fold and stitch. Pin it and try it on first, before you cut anything.

Mini, midi or maxi: what's the rule? Mini sits above the knee, midi hits at or below the knee up to mid-calf, and maxi reaches the ankle or the floor. The midi at 50–60 cm is the one that works for both office and social use.