Ocean Wavelength
Calculate the wavelength of an ocean wave in deep water, L = g·T² ÷ (2π), from the wave period T (s) and gravity g (9.81 m/s²). The result, in meters, is the distance between two successive crests — in deep water, it depends only on the period. Long-period waves (swell from distant storms) have much larger wavelengths than local wind waves. The wavelength sets the depth at which the wave 'feels' the bottom (about L/2), starts to refract and shoal until it breaks. It is a fundamental parameter of linear wave theory and coastal engineering. Enter the wave period.
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Ocean wavelength (deep water)
In deep water (where the depth is greater than about half the wavelength, so the wave never 'feels' the bottom), the wavelength — the distance between two successive crests — depends only on the period: L = g·T² ÷ (2π), where T is the period (s) and g is gravity. The dependence on the square of the period is striking: a 10 s wave is about 156 m long, while a 20 s wave (swell from a distant storm) runs about 625 m, four times longer. This relation, derived from linear wave theory (Airy), is one of the most fundamental in physical oceanography. The wavelength governs several behaviours: the limiting depth at which the wave starts to interact with the bottom (≈ L/2), setting off the processes of shoaling (the wave grows and slows down) and refraction (it changes direction, lining up with the depth contours) that transform it as it approaches the coast, until it finally breaks. Long-period waves, with their great lengths, feel the bottom at greater depths and therefore 'see' the bathymetry well before reaching the beach. The wavelength is an essential input for computing forces on offshore structures (platforms, breakwaters), sediment transport and navigation. Enter the wave period.
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Deep Water Wave Celerity
Calculate the celerity (phase velocity) of an ocean wave in deep water, c = g·T ÷ (2π), from the period T (s) and gravity g. The result, in m/s, is the speed at which the wave crest propagates. In deep water, longer-period waves travel faster — a phenomenon called dispersion, which makes long-period swell reach the coast before the short waves generated by the same storm. The celerity is half the group velocity (at which energy travels) in deep water. It is a base concept of wave hydrodynamics. Enter the wave period.
Wave Group Velocity
Calculate the group velocity of an ocean wave in deep water, c_g = g·T ÷ (4π), from the period T (s). The result, in m/s, is the speed at which the wave energy (and the 'envelope' of a wave group) propagates — exactly half the celerity (phase velocity) in deep water. This difference explains a curious phenomenon: within a wave group, individual crests appear at the rear, advance through the group (faster than it) and disappear at the front. The group velocity is what matters for energy transport and predicting swell arrival at the coast. Enter the wave period.
Wave Energy
Calculate the energy density of an ocean wave, E = (1 ÷ 8)·ρ·g·H², from the water density ρ (kg/m³, ~1025 for seawater), gravity g and the wave height H (m). The result, in J/m² (energy per surface area), is the sum of the wave's kinetic and potential energy — proportional to the square of the height, so large waves carry far more energy. It is the basis for calculating wave energy generation potential and the impact on coastal structures and beach erosion. Enter the water density and the wave height.
Iribarren Number
Calculate the Iribarren number (surf similarity parameter), ξ = tan(β) ÷ √(H ÷ L), from the beach slope tan(β), the wave height H and the wavelength L. The dimensionless result classifies the wave breaking type and runup: ξ < 0.5 indicates spilling breakers (flat beaches); 0.5 < ξ < 3.3, plunging (the wave 'barrels'); ξ > 3.3, surging/collapsing (steep beaches). It is widely used in coastal engineering to predict runup, structure overtopping and riprap stability. Enter the beach slope, wave height and wavelength.
Wave Period
Calculate the period of a wave, T = 1 ÷ f, from the frequency f (Hz). The result, in seconds, is the time between two successive crests passing a fixed point — one of the most important properties of an ocean wave. The period determines the wavelength and celerity (in deep water), the depth at which the wave interacts with the bottom, and classifies the sea state: local wind waves have short periods (3-8 s), while swell from distant storms has long periods (10-20 s), travels faster and penetrates deeper. The period is measured by buoys and used in wave forecasting. Enter the wave frequency.
Wave Steepness
Calculate the steepness of a wave, s = H ÷ L, dividing the wave height H by the wavelength L. The dimensionless result is the relative steepness of the wave — the taller it is for its length, the steeper. Steepness has a physical limit: deep-water waves break when s exceeds about 1/7 (0.143), as the crest becomes unstable (120° angle). Young storm waves are steep; swell that travels long distances is gentle (low steepness). Steepness governs wave stability, breaking and vessel comfort. Enter the wave height and wavelength.
The results provided by this tool are for general informational and educational purposes only and do not constitute professional, financial, medical, legal, tax or accounting advice. Always confirm important decisions with a qualified professional and official sources.