Ocean Wavelength
Calculate the wavelength of an ocean wave in deep water, L = g·T² ÷ (2π), from the wave period T (s) and gravity g (9.81 m/s²). The result, in meters, is the distance between two successive crests — in deep water, it depends only on the period. Long-period waves (swell from distant storms) have much larger wavelengths than local wind waves. The wavelength sets the depth at which the wave 'feels' the bottom (about L/2), starts to refract and shoal until it breaks. It is a fundamental parameter of linear wave theory and coastal engineering. Enter the wave period.
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Comprimento de onda oceânica (águas profundas)
Em águas profundas (onde a profundidade é maior que cerca de metade do comprimento de onda, então a onda não 'sente' o fundo), o comprimento de onda — a distância entre duas cristas sucessivas — depende apenas do período: L = g·T² ÷ (2π), onde T é o período (s) e g a gravidade. A dependência do quadrado do período é marcante: uma onda de 10 s tem ~156 m de comprimento, mas uma de 20 s (swell de tempestade distante) tem ~625 m, quatro vezes maior. Essa relação, derivada da teoria linear de ondas (Airy), é uma das mais fundamentais da oceanografia física. O comprimento de onda determina vários comportamentos: a profundidade limite em que a onda começa a interagir com o fundo (≈ L/2), iniciando os processos de empolamento (shoaling, a onda cresce e desacelera) e refração (muda de direção, alinhando-se com as isóbatas) que a transformam ao se aproximar da costa, até finalmente quebrar. Ondas de período longo, com grandes comprimentos, sentem o fundo a profundidades maiores e por isso 'enxergam' a batimetria muito antes de chegar à praia. O comprimento de onda é insumo essencial para calcular forças sobre estruturas offshore (plataformas, quebra-mares), o transporte de sedimentos e a navegação. Informe o período da onda.
Related Tools
Deep Water Wave Celerity
Calculate the celerity (phase velocity) of an ocean wave in deep water, c = g·T ÷ (2π), from the period T (s) and gravity g. The result, in m/s, is the speed at which the wave crest propagates. In deep water, longer-period waves travel faster — a phenomenon called dispersion, which makes long-period swell reach the coast before the short waves generated by the same storm. The celerity is half the group velocity (at which energy travels) in deep water. It is a base concept of wave hydrodynamics. Enter the wave period.
Wave Group Velocity
Calculate the group velocity of an ocean wave in deep water, c_g = g·T ÷ (4π), from the period T (s). The result, in m/s, is the speed at which the wave energy (and the 'envelope' of a wave group) propagates — exactly half the celerity (phase velocity) in deep water. This difference explains a curious phenomenon: within a wave group, individual crests appear at the rear, advance through the group (faster than it) and disappear at the front. The group velocity is what matters for energy transport and predicting swell arrival at the coast. Enter the wave period.
Wave Energy
Calculate the energy density of an ocean wave, E = (1 ÷ 8)·ρ·g·H², from the water density ρ (kg/m³, ~1025 for seawater), gravity g and the wave height H (m). The result, in J/m² (energy per surface area), is the sum of the wave's kinetic and potential energy — proportional to the square of the height, so large waves carry far more energy. It is the basis for calculating wave energy generation potential and the impact on coastal structures and beach erosion. Enter the water density and the wave height.
The results provided by this tool are for general informational and educational purposes only and do not constitute professional, financial, medical, legal, tax or accounting advice. Always confirm important decisions with a qualified professional and official sources.